Sunday 26 January 2014

It's Hip To Be Square - Steinhart Aviation Vintage, Chronograph and GMT Automatic


It's interesting where life's little detours can take you. I am pretty much a Henry Ford where watch is concerned. Give me any watch, as long as it's round. I surprised myself, too, when I picked up my first square watch - the Steinhart Aviation Vintage. I was doubly appalled at myself when I picked up my second piece - the Steinhart  Aviation GMT Automatic. I was convinced I should make an appointment with my psychiatrist when I went back to the ad to pick up my third and final piece - the Steinhart Aviation Chrono.


The Aviation range pays tribute to the pre-computerised aviation era. The case, dials, chapter rings, markers and hands are reminiscent of the gauges found on the gauges of early aircrafts. The case front is adorned with 4 hex screws. However, there have been several cases reported on forums that the screws have a tendency to come loose. The cases of the three watches in the limelight today are basically similar.



Measuring 44mm x 44mm, the case is relatively huge. It looks bigger than a round case with the same diameter. The fat lugs are proportionately sized to compliment the large case. Straps are fastened via lug tubes and hex screws. While the Vintage is DLC coated, its Chrono and GMT siblings are offered in satin brushed stainless steel

ETA movements are utilised for each variant - Valjoux 7750 for the chrono, ETA 2824-2 for the Vintage and ETA 2893-2 in the GMT. As such, reliability is not a major concern.


The case thickness vary across the different variants. The Chrono's case is of course, the thickest. The Vintage appears thinner than the GMT but this is nothing more than mere optical illusion. Thicker lugs are also used on thicker cases, proportionately. This is a nice touch but not adopted by all watch producers. Gladly, Herr Steinhart's team has not scringed on this aspect.


Among the trio, the Chrono, without a doubt, is the most macho looking beast. Thanks, of course, to the pushers and chunkier case. The orange details on the dial enhances an otherwise, boringly staid facade. My peeve with this macho man is its chrono pushers. The chrono pushers are too jiggly for my liking. The engagement clicks are hard and abrupt.


Although the orange detils might limit it to a casual number to some extent, the Chrono can serve as a worthy accompaniment to shirt sleeves, particularly french cuffs if paired with the right leather.


The dual-timer is the most subtle of the threesome. The only detail that hints at any form of excitement is the orange-tipped GMT hand. This is my usual pick on a regular workday.



There is a very unique characteristic of this watch, which is also present in the Steinhart Ocean Vintage GMT. It is almost silent when you wind it. It feels almost exactly like a quartz watch. There is almost no winding or grinding noise. Even the click of the date change is strangely muted. Did they mout some kind of muffler in the case?


The Vintage stands out with its DLC case. However, beauty, in this case, is really only skin deep. The matte DLC coating is not the most durable that I've encountered as it scratches rather easily. It has a slightly grippy texture but not rubber-like. This DLC coating is closer to some PVD coating that I've come across.



That said, the Vintage is my favourite of the trio. It is the most versatile and can take on almost every strap I've thrown its way. Every strap change reflects a different alter ego, bringing on a different personality. However, it excels in a military get-up the most, in my personal opinion.


The Vintage and the GMT models feature similar casebacks that ecthed with the model's logo. The chrono offers a see-through caseback which grants us a view of the Valjoux 7750 movement with Steinhart's signature gold rotor.




On the wrist, all three watches are equally comfortable. Not surprising as the cases are almost identcal. The angled lugs limit any visible overhang. The chunky chrono stands out more and might not be aesthetically pleasing to some.


Using old Superluminova Radium, the Vintage lives up to its name. The green lume adds a vintage element to the overall aesthetics of the watch. However, thought the most subtle in daylight, the GMT is the most handsome in the dark.



The Aviation range is a rather unique looking collection. Steinhart has managed to blend functionality and form very well in this product line. Although the Vintage is very much limited to a casual watch, it is very versatile and can be a head turner if shod with the right pair or boots.

The macho Chrono is the only schoizoid in the mix with its ability to function as a casual piece and daily office beater. However, the jiggly pushers is a bit of a let down.

The GMT works better as a subtle daily shirt sleeve man jewellery. However, it's will definitely grab a ton of attention when the lume is charged and the lights are dimmed.

These are really fun watches to own, in my opinion. They are refreshing substitutes whenever a need to take a break from my mundane routine of round cases.


Specifications :



Steinhart Aviation Vintage
Case Dimensions : 44mm x 44mm.
Case Thickness : 14.8mm.
Lug Width : 24mm.
Crystal : Sapphire, Domed.
Movement : ETA 2824-2
Power reserve : +/- 42 hours.
Water Resistance : 30m.


Steinhart GMT Automatic

Case Dimensions : 44mm x 44mm.
Case Thickness : 14.8mm.
Lug Width : 24mm.
Crystal : Sapphire, Domed.
Movement : ETA 2893-2
Power reserve : +/- 42 hours.
Water Resistance : 30m.


Steinhart Aviation Chronograph
Case Dimensions : 44mm x 44mm.
Case Thickness : 17.2mm.
Lug Width : 24mm.
Crystal : Sapphire, Domed.
Movement : Valjoux 7750 
Power reserve : +/- 42 hours.
Water Resistance : 30m.


Pros :
- Value for money. Relatively affordable prices.
- Big crown that is easy to operate.
- Nice lume, especially the Vintage and GMT Automatic.
- Very nicely angled lugs resulting in minimal overhang.
- Form meets function.
- Reliable and easily serviceable movements.
- Nice overall finishing and build quality.
- Versatile, able to use as casual and daily office beaters (GMT and Chrono).
- Versatile and able to match with almost any straps (Vintage).
- Easy strap change system.

Cons :
- DLC coating could be improved (Vintage).
- Ding magnet (Vintage).
- Very silent winding needs getting used to (GMT Auto).
- Jiggly pushers (Chrono).
- Reports of hex screws on case front loosening.



9 comments:

  1. Nice one Richard and many thanks for the pointer re case screws :-)
    Have you considered you may need a further PVD coated Aviation to balance the group, possibly a SAWLE? Phil Myglassup

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    Replies
    1. Thanks, Phil. No not at all as it's too similar to the vintage. If I wanted it I would have gotten that instead of the vintage. And furthermore, as a personal motto, I prefer to get mine brand new,.

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  2. Hi Richard,

    May i know where you purchased these watches from?

    MEC

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    Replies
    1. These are available direct from steinhart.

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  3. Just curious, what is your wrist size? Mine is 7 1/4" and I am thinking getting the Aviation GMT but I am worried it might be too big.
    Bill

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    Replies
    1. it should be alright. Mine's a 6 3/4" only. but i must stress that what matters is the sum of its parts. your overall build plays a part too.

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  4. Hello Richard;
    What is this bracelet with orange stitching?
    Where does it come from?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. the strap on the chrono? i can't remember exactly as I've too many straps from multiple sources.

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    2. the GMT has been sold out for quite sometime unfortunately.

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